The one thing to remember is that all the dimensions are flexible, with the possible exception of the aluminum angle. It is 1 inch x 1 inch, and as long as you need. I think the 1 inch size is right for the pliers. I just happened to have a piece that was 11 1/4 inches in length, so that became the length used. Why bother cutting it to 11 inches or any other length?
The plywood used is Baltic Birch. Any other wood could be used. The wood forming the tray is screen molding. The whole thing could have been made prettier, but it doesn't have to be.
The base is 5/8 inch thick, by 13 1/2 inches in length, by 4 3/4 inches wide.
The two uprights are 1/2 inch thick, 6 11/16 inches tall at the front, 3 3/4 inches wide. The odd dimension is because that was the size of the scrap wood.
The notch in the uprights measures 2 3/8 inches down from the top and 2 inches in from the back.
The uprights are set in 3/8 inch front and back and approximately 1 inch in from the side of the base.
Corners on the base and on the top of uprights were rounded off using a disc sander.
The uprights were clamped together, the notch dimensions marked, and cut out using a back saw.
At this point, I drilled four holes in the aluminum angle for small pan head sheet metal screws. No. 5 x 1/2 inch. I use whatever I have available. Then I drilled starter holes in the upright notches and attached the angle.
Next, measured out the position of the uprights on the base, clamped the uprights to the base, drilled and countersunk four screw holes and attached the uprights to the base using No. 6 x 1 1/2 inch wood screws.
Cut two pieces of screen molding and attached them, front and back, with small 1/2 inch brads, to the uprights.
Done. The knobs you see at the ends were added later for ease in moving the rack from storage position to working position. Optional.
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